Vintage Jewelry Research DeskFOR RESELLERS & COLLECTORS
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Collectors

Discover the stories, craftsmanship and details behind collectible jewelry. Learn what to look for, explore the eras and makers you love, then browse what is available.

THE COLLECTOR’S DESK

Every collection begins with curiosity.

From an unmistakable designer signature to an unsigned treasure, explore the stories and details that make vintage jewelry worth discovering.

Learn the history. Recognize the details. Follow your curiosity.

Vintage jewelry collection with gold pieces and gemstones

Collectible Costume Jewelry

Get to know the makers behind collectible costume jewelry. Open a company profile for its story, signature clues and research references; browse eBay and Etsy examples directly from each maker’s card.

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Gold-tone statement necklace with colorful cabochons on champagne satinSigned Costume JewelryExplore the stories, signatures and collecting history of 64 featured jewelry makers. Open any designer for a richer guide.

Browse the makers alphabetically. Use eBay and Etsy to explore jewelry examples directly from each maker’s listing, or open a profile for company history, signatures, and research references. A matching seller description or maker’s mark alone does not establish authenticity.

A selective guide to designers and manufacturers especially relevant to collectors. For other makers, common production lines, signatures and aliases, use the full Research Marks A–Z reference.
Browse the complete Maker’s Marks & Identification reference →

Accessocraft

Company history

Accessocraft was founded in New York in 1930 by Edgar Roedelheimer and Theodore Steinman, both previously involved in the jewelry trade. Known for heraldic brooches, elaborate chains, jewelry and accessories such as belts. Sources differ between a 1996 company close and a late-1990s cessation; present as approximate rather than precise.

Dates & locations

Dates: 1930–approximately late 1990s. Locations: New York City and New Rochelle, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Accessocraft · Accessocraft NYC · Accessocraft N.Y.C.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research · Costume Jewelry Collectors International — Accessocraft

Alice Caviness

Company history

Alice Caviness marketed distinctive costume jewelry, often incorporating colorful beads, stones and designs influenced by international styles.

Anne Klein

Company history

Anne Klein founded her New York clothing company in 1968 and developed an internationally licensed fashion brand. Following her death in 1974, other designers continued her collections. Signed jewelry reflects successive licensing arrangements and manufacturers, not necessarily production by Klein herself.

Dates & locations

Dates: Brand founded 1968; later licensing and production continue. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Anne Klein · AK · lion head with AK · lion head AK · Anne Klein lion · lion logo jewelry.

Research references

Company or designer first-party history

ART / ModeArt

Company history

Mode-Art was a New York costume-jewelry business established by Arthur Pepper. Its signed ART pieces include ornate decorative and figural designs, often incorporating rhinestones and colored stones. Its operating dates are typically placed in the mid-20th century, but an exact final manufacturing date is not established. A mark reading ART is not proof of art-period or country.

Dates & locations

Dates: Mid-20th century; exact founding and closing dates need independent primary confirmation. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: ART · MODE-ART · Mode Art · ART MODE-ART · Arthur Pepper ART.

Research references

Costume Jewelry Collectors International — ART / Mode Art

Attwood & Sawyer

Company history

British costume jewelry maker known for decorative brooches and historically inspired styles. The company and its A&S signature should be researched separately from American A&S initials.

Dates & locations

Founded 1956; England.

Signatures & identification

A&S; verify stamp and construction before attribution.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

Avon

Company history

David H. McConnell founded the California Perfume Company in 1886, which adopted the Avon name in 1939. Avon’s own corporate history dates direct sales of jewelry to 1971, following earlier promotional offerings. Avon-branded jewelry may have been made by different contract suppliers and designer collaborators, so an Avon stamp does not establish a single place of manufacture.

Dates & locations

Dates: Company from 1886; Avon name from 1939; jewelry sold from 1971. Locations: United States; international direct-sales business.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Avon · Avon mark · AVON KJL · AVON ELIZABETH TAYLOR.

Research references

Company or designer first-party history

Beaucraft

Company history

Beaucraft is known for sterling silver jewelry, including charms, novelty brooches and mid-century designs.

Bogoff

Company history

Henry Bogoff of Chicago designed costume jewelry associated with Spear Novelty Co. U.S. patent records from 1948 identify Bogoff as the inventor of an earring design assigned to Spear Novelty, independently confirming that manufacturing/design relationship. Historical production is chiefly mid-century; precise ending remains uncertain.

Dates & locations

Dates: Design and trade activity documented in 1948; mid-century jewelry. Locations: Chicago, Illinois.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Bogoff.

Research references

Historical company reference

Boucher

Company history

Marcel Boucher, formerly trained in fine jewelry work, founded his own New York jewelry concern in 1937. His signed pieces were known for sophisticated metalwork and stone settings; inventory and design numbering can aid dating when compared with established records. Production continued after the founder’s death under later ownership.

Dates & locations

Dates: Established 1937; brand later continued. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Boucher · Marcel Boucher · MB · Boucher Phrygian cap.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research

Butler & Wilson

Company history

Butler & Wilson is a British fashion-jewelry name known for dramatic rhinestone pieces and imaginative novelty motifs.

Castlecliff

Company history

Castlecliff was established in New York in 1918 by Clifford Furst and Joseph Bobley. It became known for dramatic costume jewelry made using colored stones, innovative settings and large-scale forms. Castlecliff has been revived as a modern brand, so the closure of the historic operation should not be confused with present jewelry bearing its name.

Dates & locations

Dates: Historic company from 1918; later owner changes and revival. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Castlecliff.

Research references

Historical company reference

Chanel

Company history

Chanel introduced costume jewelry as part of its fashion vocabulary. Signatures have included CHANEL text, circular plates, interlocking CC logos, later oval plaques and date/season codes. Early examples can be unsigned. Poured glass associated with Maison Gripoix is a technique and supplier relationship, not a maker stamp proving Chanel attribution. Jewelry mark styles vary widely by period.

Dates & locations

Dates: Fashion house founded 1910; signed costume-jewelry signatures evolved throughout the 20th century; brand active. Locations: Paris, France; multiple production ateliers.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: CHANEL · Chanel Made in France · CHANEL CC · interlocking CC · double C logo · CHANEL oval plaque · CHANEL round plaque · Chanel season code.

Research references

Chanel mark period guide · Chanel costume jewelry authentication guide

Ciner

Company history

Founded in 1892 in New York City, Ciner developed from fine jewelry into high-quality costume jewelry. Its own corporate history identifies an ongoing family-run business still making jewelry in New York, so an end-of-manufacturing year should not be assigned to the entire brand.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1892; continuing. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Ciner.

Research references

Ciner company profile describing continued New York manufacture

Coro & Corocraft

Company history

Established in New York as Cohn & Rosenberger in 1902. Coro became a leading costume-jewelry producer. Its Rhode Island subsidiary began in 1910; in 1929 it moved its manufacturing, stock and shipping operations into the large plant at 167 Point Street, Providence. The Rhode Island Historical Society records additional sites in Olneyville and Bristol. Coro was especially associated with elaborate rhinestone brooches, Duette double-clip pieces, and CoroCraft jewelry.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1902; Rhode Island subsidiary established 1910; American manufacturing operation through 1979. Locations: New York City (parent); Providence, Rhode Island (major factories).

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: CORO · CoroCraft · Coro Craft · Pegasus (Coro) · Coro Duette · Duette Coro · Coro Pegasus · winged horse.

Rhode Island connection

Providence operations: Chestnut Street, later 167 Point Street (1929–1979), plus plants at Olneyville and Bristol.

Identification caution

Corocraft denotes a higher-end Coro line; the presence or absence of a signature alone does not establish a date or attribution.

Research references

Providence Jewelry District industrial history · Rhode Island Historical Society — Coro company records

Danecraft

Company history

Danecraft is especially associated with sterling silver jewelry, including floral and figural brooches and bracelets.

David Andersen

Company history

Norwegian silver and enamel house known to collectors for Scandinavian design, guilloché enamel and silver jewelry. Fine silver as well as collectible decorative jewelry belongs in cross-category research.

Dates & locations

Founded 1876; Oslo, Norway.

Signatures & identification

David-Andersen, D-A, Norway, 925S and related variations; verify exact period.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

DeRosa

Company history

Ralph DeRosa’s costume jewelry is associated with bold sculptural designs, rich settings and striking vintage brooches.

D'Orlan

Company history

Canadian fashion jewelry with rhinestones and metal designs.

Dates & locations

Dates: Established in the late 1950s; vintage production late 20th century. Locations: Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: D'Orlan · D Orlan · Dorlan.

Eisenberg

Company history

The Eisenberg family developed its business in Chicago as a clothing manufacturer in the early twentieth century; sparkling dress decorations evolved into collectible costume jewelry marketed with Eisenberg signatures. The fashion jewelry name persisted under later owners, so company founding and manufacture of a specific piece should be separated.

Dates & locations

Dates: Dressmaking enterprise from 1914; costume jewelry from 1930s. Locations: Chicago, Illinois.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Eisenberg · Eisenberg Ice · Eisenberg Original.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research

Erwin Pearl

Company history

Erwin Pearl founded his New York jewelry business in 1952 and expanded into fashion and costume jewelry around 1970. Known for sculptural gold-tone designs, decorative brooches, chains, and polished statement pieces, the firm also produced sterling silver and gold-filled jewelry.

Dates & locations

New York, New York; founded 1952. Costume jewelry from approximately 1970. Manufacturing in Warwick, Rhode Island, is documented for the 1990s.

Signatures & identification

P.E.P. / PEP (associated with Erwin Pearl) · Erwin Pearl (documented from 1983) · E. Pearl (1991) · E.P. (2001). P.E.P. has been found together with the Erwin Pearl signature on the same earring; do not confuse an isolated E.P. mark with a definitive attribution without other evidence.

Research references

Signature and company chronology · Vintage jewelry overview

Exquisite (British)

Company history

A British costume jewelry label particularly associated with floral brooches and mid-century styling; it is not a maker name that alone establishes exact date.

Dates & locations

Mid-twentieth century; United Kingdom.

Signatures & identification

Exquisite; not all pieces were marked.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

Florenza

Company history

Dan Kasoff’s New York business used the Florenza mark from approximately 1950. The line is associated with ornate antique-revival settings and also supplied selected wholesale accounts. Family-provided historical accounts date the original Florenza business closure to February 1981.

Dates & locations

Dates: Florenza jewelry line circa 1950–1981. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Florenza.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research · Specialist company history with family-provided information

Givenchy

Company history

Designer fashion jewelry and licensed accessories; jewelry dates vary by production line.

Dates & locations

Dates: Fashion house founded 1952; costume jewelry issued in later decades. Locations: Paris, France.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Givenchy · Givenchy Paris.

Goldette

Company history

Goldette is especially known for antique-inspired costume jewelry, dangling chains, lockets and layered necklaces.

Hagler, Stanley

Company history

Distinctive layered and often sculptural beaded costume jewelry made during the mid-to-late twentieth century. Attribution should take the actual construction and signature into account.

Dates & locations

1953–1996; United States.

Signatures & identification

Stanley Hagler, Stanley Hagler N.Y.C.; verify later-work attributions separately.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

Hattie Carnegie

Company history

Hattie Carnegie developed a celebrated New York fashion business that offered hats, apparel, accessories and jewelry. The business continued after her death in 1956 under later management, and a university fashion archive dates continued production of jewelry and accessories to 1976. The designer’s death date must not be used as the manufacturing-end date.

Dates & locations

Dates: Fashion house established in the early 20th century; accessories and jewelry made through 1976. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Carnegie · Hattie Carnegie · Hattie Carnegie script.

Research references

Mount Mary University fashion archive, Hattie Carnegie

Heidi Daus

Company history

Elaborate crystal statement jewelry and vintage-inspired settings.

Dates & locations

Dates: Contemporary design brand; active in the 21st century. Locations: United States.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Heidi Daus · Heidi Daus CN · HD.

Hobé

Company history

Hobé developed from a European jewelry family into a U.S. fashion-jewelry business known for elaborate brooches and jewelry used in theater and film. A New York American operation expanded in the 1920s; late-1990s sale or closure dates are often reported, but the final original production date remains uncertain.

Dates & locations

Dates: American line established in the 1920s; continued through much of the 20th century. Locations: New York City, New York; earlier European family business.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Hobe · Hobé.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research

Hollycraft

Company history

Hollycraft was a New York costume-jewelry business associated with the Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Co. Its colorful rhinestone jewelry often used pastel colors, with some vintage examples dated on their reverse. A later sale around 1970 is reported, followed by manufacturing into approximately the early 1980s.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded about 1936–1938; later operations through approximately 1980. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Hollycraft.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research

Joan Rivers

Company history

Joan Rivers introduced the Classics Collection on QVC in September 1990, first selling fashion jewelry and later extending to apparel and accessories. The collection continued after Joan’s death through its successors and family management. Individual pieces may have been made by contract factories, but no document reviewed establishes Gem-Craft as a Joan Rivers manufacturer.

Dates & locations

Dates: Introduced September 1990; brand continued after 2014. Locations: United States; QVC direct-to-consumer fashion-jewelry brand.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Joan Rivers · JR · Joan Rivers Classics.

Research references

Company or designer first-party history

Joseff of Hollywood

Company history

Eugene Joseff created jewelry for Hollywood films using a subdued matte-metal finish to avoid glare under studio lighting. The company manufactured and rented pieces for major productions and developed retail lines. Its own records identify several period signatures: early JOSEFF HOLLYWOOD tags, block JOSEFF and later script Joseff. Original components and assembly continued after Eugene Joseff’s death in 1948.

Dates & locations

Dates: Movie-studio jewelry developed in late 1920s; Burbank manufacturing location since 1938. Locations: Burbank, California.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: JOSEFF · JOSEFF HOLLYWOOD · JOSEFF OF HOLLYWOOD · Joseff script · JOSEFF block mark.

Research references

Joseff company historical FAQ · SFO Museum — Joseff of Hollywood

José and María Barrera

Company history

Designer-led jewelry house known for statement costume jewelry and collections sold through fine department stores. Also designed jewelry for Avon.

Dates & locations

Established in the early 1980s; New York.

Signatures & identification

Barrera, Barrera for Avon; mark placement differs by collection.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

Karl Lagerfeld

Company history

Karl Lagerfeld’s namesake fashion house introduced sculptural designer costume jewelry, including pieces bearing intertwined or script KL initials. The Metropolitan Museum of Art credits Italian jewelry designer Ugo Correani with a 1987 Karl Lagerfeld jewelry set and describes their continuing collaboration. Later licenses were separate manufacturing arrangements: Frederick Goldman announced a 2016 fine-jewelry agreement with production in China; Swarovski announced a 2017 fashion-jewelry license; and Morellato announced a new jewelry and watch agreement in 2024. These later arrangements should not be used to date a vintage KL signature. No Rhode Island or nearby Massachusetts manufacturing connection has yet been established for the brand.

Dates & locations

Dates: Namesake fashion house founded 1984; vintage jewelry from the 1980s onward; brand continues. Locations: Paris, France (fashion house); documented collaborators/manufacturers in Italy, France, China and other locations.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: KL · KL in script · interlocking KL · Karl Lagerfeld · Karl Lagerfeld Paris.

Rhode Island connection

No documented Rhode Island or nearby Massachusetts manufacturing site for Karl Lagerfeld jewelry has been established. Swarovski has Rhode Island corporate history, but that does not establish that its licensed Karl Lagerfeld jewelry was manufactured in Rhode Island.

Research references

The Metropolitan Museum of Art — 1987 Karl Lagerfeld / Ugo Correani jewelry · CJCI — KL script mark (distinguished from K.L. by Charles Rothman)

Kenneth Jay Lane

Company history

Kenneth Jay Lane established his bold fashion jewelry label in New York in the early 1960s. He was a Rhode Island School of Design graduate (class of 1954), an important personal Rhode Island connection; that does not by itself prove Rhode Island manufacture of every KJL piece. Jewelry lines continued after his death in 2017, sometimes under licensing and collaborations.

Dates & locations

Dates: Brand established 1962–1963; continues. Locations: New York City, New York; designer educated at RISD, Providence.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Kenneth Jay Lane · KJL · Kenneth Lane · K.J.L. · K.J.L. for AVON · KJL AVON.

Rhode Island connection

Personal Rhode Island link: Kenneth Jay Lane graduated from Rhode Island School of Design in Providence in 1954. This does not prove jewelry was produced there.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research

Kirks Folly

Company history

Founded in New York City in 1979 by Helen and Jenniefer Kirk, together with family members, Kirks Folly became known for fanciful costume jewelry with fairies, mermaids, stars and celestial motifs. The business had a substantial Rhode Island history: Providence Business News described the family operation as a Rhode Island jewelry and keepsake manufacturer in 2002; Kirk's Folly Design was registered at 236 Chapman Street in Providence, and subsequent company records place operations in Cranston. Its QVC partnership began in 1992. The original company closed in 2014, but Jenniefer and Helen Kirk subsequently revived the brand and resumed manufacturing. The date Rhode Island jewelry production ended has not been independently established.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1979; original business closed 2014; revived and operating subsequently. Locations: New York City (founded 1979); Providence and Cranston, Rhode Island (documented jewelry manufacturing and business operations).

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Kirks Folly · Kirk's Folly · KF.

Rhode Island connection

Providence: documented company/manufacturing operation at 236 Chapman Street; Cranston: later registered business address at 82 Seaview Avenue. A 2002 Rhode Island business report identifies it as a Rhode Island jewelry/keepsake manufacturer. Location of production for every product and period is not established.

Research references

Kirks Folly — official company history and 2014 closure/revival · Providence Business News (2002) — Rhode Island jewelry manufacturing business

Kramer

Company history

Louis Kramer founded Kramer of New York in 1943. Its costume-jewelry collections made extensive use of rhinestones and glass stones. The company also produced jewelry for Christian Dior distribution under joint signatures. The business is commonly described as closing around 1980, though exact final production records are scarce.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1943; original business to about 1980. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Kramer · Kramer NY · Kramer of New York.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research · Historical overview of Kramer of New York

Krementz

Company history

Krementz made jewelry with fine-metal and gold-overlay traditions as well as costume-oriented designs and accessories.

Lea Stein

Company history

Lea Stein is known for layered, laminated cellulose-acetate jewelry, particularly colorful figural brooches. Her signatures often appear as LEA STEIN PARIS on the metal clasp; early and later examples differ in both materials and construction. The early business interruption is not a permanent end of all Lea Stein jewelry production.

Dates & locations

Dates: Jewelry work from late 1960s; first production period to around 1980; subsequently resumed. Locations: Paris, France.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: LEA STEIN · LEA STEIN PARIS · Lea Stein Paris clasp · Stein Paris.

Research references

CJCI mark history — Stein · Collector history

Lisner

Company history

D. Lisner & Co. began in New York in 1904, initially importing and distributing jewelry. The business later sold Lisner-branded costume jewelry and bought Richelieu Pearl in the 1970s. Specialist research states Lisner jewelry was made in Providence by Rhode Island suppliers from the 1930s, including work by Whiting & Davis. Original Lisner jewelry manufacturing ceased by the mid-1980s even though the name passed through other owners.

Dates & locations

Dates: Established 1904; Lisner mark used from the 1930s; brand acquired by later owners. Locations: New York City (sales and distribution); Rhode Island (contract manufacturing).

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Lisner.

Rhode Island connection

Providence/Rhode Island: contract jewelry manufacture from the 1930s, reportedly including Whiting & Davis production. This is not evidence that Lisner corporate headquarters moved to RI.

Research references

Costume Jewelry Collectors: Lisner history and ending · Lisner signatures and Providence manufacturing references

Lunch at the Ritz

Company history

Founded in 1982 by Esme Hecht and Alexis Watts. Known for elaborate enamel jewelry, whimsical motifs and dangling charms.

Signatures & identification

LUNCH AT THE RITZ; compare original signatures, tags and period examples. Later Ritzy Couture is a distinct label.

Mazer & Jomaz

Company history

Mazer Bros. began in New York during the 1920s, with jewelry made under Mazer and later Jomaz after Joseph Mazer and Louis Mazer separated their businesses. The original Mazer Bros. company and the Jomaz successor must not be treated as a single uninterrupted company. Some signed marks overlapped in the mid-century period.

Dates & locations

Dates: Mazer Bros. 1920s–1952; Joseph Mazer/Jomaz line continued into 1981. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: MAZER · MAZER BROS · JOMAZ.

Identification caution

Mazer and Jomaz are related names, but signatures and production periods should be assessed separately.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research

McClelland Barclay

Company history

American artist whose sculptural, often dramatic costume jewelry was manufactured by Rice-Weiner. He died in 1943; he was not affiliated with the later Providence Barclay firm.

Dates & locations

Jewelry principally circa 1938–1943; United States.

Signatures & identification

McClelland Barclay and documented Barclay signatures; compare lettering with reliable reference examples.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

Miriam Haskell

Company history

Miriam Haskell opened her jewelry boutique in New York City in 1926, with a reputation for intricately hand-assembled beadwork, simulated pearls and filigree. Frank Hess was an important early designer. The company and name continued under subsequent owners; an early unsigned piece should not be ruled out simply because it lacks a Haskell plaque.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1926; brand remains active. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Miriam Haskell · Haskell · M. Haskell.

Research references

Company history and maker-reference research

Monet

Company history

Monet was the fashion-jewelry division of Monocraft Products Co. The Chernow family developed the line, sold through department stores. An FTC investigation from the 1960s explicitly described a New York City main office and showroom but a Providence factory which made and shipped necklaces, bracelets, charms, earrings, and pins. This is a documented manufacturing connection, not proof that the worldwide headquarters was in Providence. Monet also produced Christian Lacroix licensed jewelry starting in 1995 according to CJCI; not every licensed designer piece can be assigned to a Providence facility.

Dates & locations

Dates: Monocraft origins in the 1920s; Monet brand established in the 1930s; continued under later ownership. Locations: New York City (sales office/showroom in 1967); Providence, Rhode Island (factory and shipping).

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Monet · Monet Jewelers.

Rhode Island connection

1954 Providence directory lists Monocraft at 46 Chestnut Street. FTC records expressly identify Monet manufacturing and customer shipments from Providence in the 1960s. A licensed manufacturing relationship with Christian Lacroix began in 1995.

Research references

Rhode Island jewelry district history · FTC decision (1967) — Monet office in NYC and Providence factory

Napier

Company history

Napier evolved from the E. A. Bliss jewelry business, moved to Meriden, Connecticut, and adopted the Napier name in the early 1920s. Its costume jewelry included bold metal designs and charm bracelets. In 1999 Warwick, Rhode Island-based Victoria & Co. acquired Napier and closed its Meriden manufacturing plant, moving production overseas. The Napier brand subsequently continued on products made under later ownership.

Dates & locations

Dates: Predecessor dates to the late 1870s; Napier name from 1920–1922 onward; brand continued. Locations: Meriden, Connecticut (historic factory); Warwick, Rhode Island (1999 acquirer Victoria & Co.).

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Napier · Napier script · Napier block.

Rhode Island connection

RI corporate connection: Warwick-based Victoria & Co. acquired Napier in March 1999 and closed the Meriden factory that October. This is ownership, not evidence Napier itself had a Rhode Island factory.

Research references

JCK industry report, Napier factory closed, Dec. 1999 · Collector background on company and mark chronology

Panetta

Company history

Benedetto Panetta established his New York jewelry business in 1945 after experience with other mid-century jewelry makers. His sons Amadeo and Armand later continued its detailed cast and rhinestone designs. Historical references place Panetta family production through the late 1980s, with later ownership changes.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1945; family production through late 1980s. Locations: New York City, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Panetta.

Research references

Costume Jewelry Collectors International — Panetta

Pennino

Company history

Pennino produced collectible American costume jewelry with detailed figural, floral and rhinestone designs.

Regency

Company history

Rhinestone statement jewelry, dramatic color combinations and brooches.

Dates & locations

Dates: Mid-20th century; precise years require verification. Locations: New York, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Regency.

Reinad

Company history

Reinad was a costume-jewelry manufacturer associated with elegant vintage rhinestone designs and dress accessories.

Reja

Company history

Figural rhinestone jewelry and themed brooches.

Dates & locations

Dates: Active during the 1930s–1950s. Locations: New York, New York.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Reja.

Renoir & Matisse

Company history

Renoir jewelry is admired for copper metalwork; its Matisse line often incorporates colorful enamel on copper.

Sarah Coventry

Company history

Sarah Coventry, introduced by the Stuart family in Newark, New York in 1949, sold jewelry via home parties. It relied on contract producers, including some in Rhode Island, rather than stamping one factory on every item. The original business ended in the early 1980s; the name has been reused since, which limits dating from the name alone.

Dates & locations

Dates: Original line launched 1949 and closed around 1984; later revivals. Locations: Newark, New York; contract producers including Rhode Island.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Sarah Coventry · SC · Coventry.

Rhode Island connection

Rhode Island jewelry contract manufacturing is historically reported, but a specific Rhode Island maker should be named only if independently evidenced for the piece.

Research references

Antique Trader, Sarah Coventry and Emmons history · Schiffer reference work on original catalogs and dates

Schiaparelli

Company history

The surrealist fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli influenced bold costume jewelry with elaborate stones, sculptural forms and unconventional color. Schiaparelli jewelry includes signed American-market pieces and later licensing arrangements. The demise of the original couture house is not proof that all branded jewelry production stopped that year.

Dates & locations

Dates: Couture house established 1927; fashion house closed in 1954; jewelry brand use continued through licensing. Locations: Paris, France; American-market costume jewelry sold under licensed label.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: SCHIAPARELLI · Elsa Schiaparelli · Schiaparelli script.

Research references

CJCI maker-history reference

Schreiner

Company history

Schreiner of New York is prized by collectors for dramatic stone arrangements and unusual rhinestone settings. Many designs were unsigned.

Selini

Company history

Closely associated with the Selro collecting field but deserves its own search entry. Distinguish genuinely signed examples from look-alikes.

Dates & locations

Mid-twentieth century; precise production dates need further documentation.

Signatures & identification

Selini; attribution of unsigned examples remains provisional.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

Selro

Company history

Bold mid-century jewelry often recognized for molded figural faces, textured metal, and striking color combinations. Many pieces are unmarked, so design similarity alone is not definitive.

Dates & locations

Mid-twentieth century; New York associated with the line.

Signatures & identification

Selro; some related designs attributed through construction and documented sets.

Research references

See the linked alphabetical reference for identification leads; corroborate dates and marks against original catalogues, advertisements or trademark records.
CJCI alphabetical research index

Sherman

Company history

Gustave Sherman’s Canadian jewelry company made striking rhinestone jewelry, often with carefully coordinated colors and elaborate settings.

Staret

Company history

The vintage signature is STARET (one R after the A), not STARRETT. The Chicago firm originated as Star Novelty Co.; midcentury figural jewelry includes patriotic and animal forms. CJCI notes that the source of all manufacturing remains uncertain because signed and unsigned identical examples exist. The misspelling STARRETT is indexed only to help users find STARET.

Dates & locations

Dates: Star Novelty Company operating by 1935; Staret name associated with 1941–1947. Locations: Chicago, Illinois; New York showroom presence.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: STARET · STARET JEWELRY · STARRETT · Staret rectangular tag.

Research references

CJCI Staret mark and company history

Swarovski

Company history

Daniel Swarovski established the crystal-cutting enterprise in Wattens, Austria, in 1895. Its U.S. corporate history is unusually important for Providence-area jewelry research: the Rhode Island Secretary of State traces the Swarovski U.S. Holding entity through names including Jewel Mfg. Co., Jewel Company of America, and Swarovski America Limited. Those are corporate identities, not proof that every item carrying a Swarovski mark was made in Rhode Island.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1895; U.S. Rhode Island corporate record incorporated 1955. Locations: Wattens, Austria (global origin); Cranston, Rhode Island (U.S. corporate operations).

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: SWAROVSKI · SAL · S.A.L. · Swan (Swarovski) · Edelweiss (Swarovski).

Rhode Island connection

Cranston: Swarovski U.S. Holding at 50 Sharpe Drive; Rhode Island corporate history includes earlier Jewel Mfg. Co. / Jewel Company of America names. Swarovski confirms Cranston and New York U.S. offices.

Research references

Rhode Island Secretary of State, corporate name history · Swarovski official U.S. locations

Trifari

Company history

Trifari, Krussman & Fishel became a major American manufacturer of signed costume jewelry. A federal court opinion confirms that its East Providence plant handled manufacturing, and the company consolidated New York model-making and other premanufacturing functions into East Providence during its 1982–1984 reorganization. Jewelry was also produced under later corporate ownership.

Dates & locations

Dates: Founded 1918; original business changed hands; Trifari-branded jewelry continued. Locations: New York City (historical office/design); East Providence, Rhode Island (factory/model-making).

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: TRIFARI · Crown Trifari · KTF · Crown over T · Jelly Belly Trifari · Fruit Salad Trifari · Crown T Trifari.

Rhode Island connection

East Providence: documented production plant, model shop and premanufacturing operations in the early 1980s.

Research references

Federal district court, Trifari East Providence operations · Russo v. Trifari (1988) — East Providence operations

Vendôme

Company history

Vendôme was a higher-fashion jewelry line associated with Coro. The parent company had extensive manufacturing in Providence and elsewhere. The parent’s Rhode Island factory connection is documented, but we cannot assign any individual Vendôme piece to Providence without additional production records.

Dates & locations

Dates: Vintage line prominent from mid-20th century through the 1970s. Locations: Coro-linked line; parent company New York; parent manufacturing in Providence, RI.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Vendome · Vendôme · VENDOME CORO.

Rhode Island connection

Coro’s Providence factories are documented. A specific Vendôme manufacturing location is not confirmed.

Research references

Rhode Island Historical Society — Coro company records · Vintage jewelry brand history — Vendôme

Weiss

Company history

Albert Weiss learned jewelry design at Coro before opening his own New York company in 1942. Weiss-marked pieces became known for colorful rhinestones and strong settings. The original company closed in 1971, while a modern Albert Weiss Collection later revived the name. Coro’s Providence operation was extensive, but Weiss’s prior Coro employment does not by itself prove that Weiss jewelry was made in Providence.

Dates & locations

Dates: Original Albert Weiss business 1942–1971; modern brand revival separate. Locations: New York City (own company); professional training at Coro.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Weiss · Albert Weiss.

Rhode Island connection

Indirect regional connection: Albert Weiss worked for Coro, which had a major Providence factory. No specific Weiss factory in Rhode Island is established.

Research references

Current Weiss company historical summary · Jewelry reference on original company and mark

Whiting & Davis

Company history

The business began as Wade, Davis & Co. in Plainville, Massachusetts, in 1876. Charles A. Whiting entered the company in 1880 and joined Davis in its later ownership and renaming. The firm became famous for woven metal-mesh handbags, clothing and jewelry. The continuing brand should not be mistaken for uninterrupted manufacturing at a single factory.

Dates & locations

Dates: Established 1876 as Wade, Davis & Co.; Whiting & Davis name from 1896; brand continues. Locations: Plainville, Massachusetts; historical branch in Franklin, Massachusetts.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: Whiting & Davis · W&D · Whiting and Davis.

Research references

Whiting & Davis official company history · Massachusetts appellate evidence of factory sale and production

Yves Saint Laurent (YSL)

Company history

Yves Saint Laurent was a Paris fashion house whose costume jewelry was made through several separate ateliers and licensing arrangements. The Metropolitan Museum of Art documents a 1989–90 Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche jewelry set credited to Goossens. Period references document jewelry signed Yves Saint Laurent for Carnegie in December 1978 and Monet receiving rights for mass-market YSL jewelry production in 1981. Monet had documented manufacturing operations in Providence, Rhode Island; this is an important Rhode Island link to licensed YSL jewelry, but it does not mean every YSL piece was manufactured there. Identify the actual production period and manufacturer from each piece’s construction, signature and surviving documentation.

Dates & locations

Dates: Fashion house established 1961; vintage costume jewelry signatures documented from the 1970s onward; brand continues. Locations: Paris, France; licensed U.S. jewelry production associated with Monet, whose manufacturing operations included Providence, Rhode Island.

Signatures & identification

Documented marks and search terms: YSL · Y.S.L. · Yves Saint Laurent · Yves St. Laurent · Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche · YSL Rive Gauche · Yves Saint Laurent for Carnegie · interlocking YSL monogram · conjoined YSL letters · YSL MONET.

Rhode Island connection

Monet, which manufactured jewelry in Providence, obtained rights to produce YSL costume jewelry in 1981. This is a licensed-manufacturer connection, not evidence that all YSL jewelry was Providence-made.

Research references

The Metropolitan Museum of Art — YSL and Goossens 1989–90 jewelry · CJCI — documented YSL signatures and 1981 Monet licensing note

Names and marks are a starting point—not an authentication or guarantee of value. Marketplace listings are independent sellers’ descriptions, not verified historical references.

Other Costume Jewelry Collecting Categories

Bakelite Jewelry

Explore carved bangles, brooches, colorways and vintage phenolic jewelry.

Avoid destructive or potentially damaging identification tests.

Unsigned Collectibles

Study findings, patents, stone settings and construction to understand unmarked pieces.

A maker attribution needs evidence beyond stylistic similarity.

Fine & Antique Jewelry

Explore antique and fine jewelry by era, with marketplace examples available directly from each period card.

As an eBay Partner Network Affiliate, we may earn from qualifying purchases through eBay links. Some other marketplace links may also earn us a commission, at no additional cost to you.

Explore jewelry movements and decades below, including the 1950s and 1960s together under Mid-Century.

Illustrative jewelry photograph for Georgian collecting
18th–early 19th century

Georgian

Rose-cut diamonds, closed-back settings, silver over gold, and hand-crafted details.

Read the Georgian collecting guide

Hand-fabricated jewelry, often designed to catch candlelight. Surviving pieces are scarce; old components are sometimes reused.

How to recognize it

  • Foil-backed gems and paste in closed-back settings
  • Rose-cut diamonds, garnets, seed pearls, and cut steel
  • Handworked collets and irregular, individually made details

Characteristic designs

Floral sprays, girandole earrings, rivière necklaces, memorial jewels

Materials & construction

Precious gold and silver, paste, garnets, diamonds, pearls, cut steel and sometimes foil-lined gems. Individual hand-made collets, closed settings and irregular workmanship deserve close examination.

What collectors should examine

Look for an untouched back, original pin fittings and believable wear across every component. Confirm whether gemstones have been reset; moisture can seriously damage foil-backed stones.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Later Georgian-revival jewels and assembled antique components can closely resemble period originals. Do not immerse closed-back or foil-backed jewelry in cleaning solutions.

Dating caution: Closed backs are a clue, not proof. Georgian-style jewelry was made later, and stones may have been reset.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Illustrative jewelry photograph for Victorian collecting
1837–1901

Victorian

Garnets, lockets, sentimental motifs, revival designs, and elaborate goldwork.

Read the Victorian collecting guide

A long era with several distinct fashions, from romantic symbolism to memorial pieces and archaeological revival.

How to recognize it

  • Early: flowers, hands, snakes, hearts, turquoise, and seed pearls
  • Mid: jet, black glass, onyx, hairwork, and memorial inscriptions
  • Late: crescents, stars, insect forms, gold-filled and mass-produced pieces

Characteristic designs

Cameos, lockets, mourning brooches, sentimental motifs, engraved bangles

Materials & construction

Early romantic jewelry often used colored gems and seed pearls; later work includes jet, hairwork, black enamel, silver, gold and gold-filled constructions. Factory production expanded over the century.

What collectors should examine

Separate early sentimental, mid-century mourning and late aesthetic/revival fashions. Study inscriptions, photographs, mourning symbols, metal marks and back construction together.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Not every black jewel is mourning jewelry. Jet, vulcanite, bog oak and molded glass are different materials; later reproductions often imitate Victorian motifs.

Dating caution: Victorian Revival is a style, not an original Victorian date. Later factory jewelry often repeats these motifs.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Arts & Crafts jewelry example
c. 1880–1920

Arts & Crafts

Hand-wrought silver, enamel, cabochons and distinctive workshop craftsmanship.

Read the Arts & Crafts collecting guide

A craft-centered reaction to industrial mass production. Design and workmanship often mattered more than precious materials.

How to recognize it

  • Visible handwork, hammered surfaces, and intentionally organic settings
  • Cabochons, colored enamel, silver, and semiprecious gems
  • Botanical or symbolic designs with restrained sparkle

Characteristic designs

Hand-wrought pendants, hammered metalwork, enamel plaques, stylized botanical and animal motifs, and jewelry featuring natural stones and cabochons

Materials & construction

Hand-hammered silver and copper, enamel, cabochon gemstones and hand-wrought findings suit the movement’s emphasis on workmanship. British guild work and American studio traditions vary.

What collectors should examine

Examine the reverse for authentic bench construction, honest tool marks, period findings and distinctive workshop marks; research the exact maker where present.

Revival styles & buying cautions

A hand-worked surface does not guarantee early manufacture. Contemporary artisan jewelry still uses Arts & Crafts vocabulary.

Dating caution: Modern studio pieces can share the same handmade aesthetic. Research marks and fabrication.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Illustrative jewelry photograph for Edwardian collecting
1901–1910s

Edwardian

Delicate platinum and diamond settings, bows, garlands, and pearls.

Read the Edwardian / Belle Époque collecting guide

Airy, refined settings and garland motifs flourished alongside Art Nouveau rather than replacing it.

How to recognize it

  • Delicate platinum or platinum-topped settings with pierced, lace-like openwork and fine filigree details
  • Milgrain edges, bows, ribbons, swags, and lace-like forms
  • Diamonds, pearls, old European cuts, and fine knife-edge bars

Characteristic designs

Garland brooches, lavalier necklaces, filigree rings

Materials & construction

Platinum and platinum-topped gold enabled delicate pierced, lace-like work, often with milgrain and fine filigree details. Not every pierced setting is technically wire filigree; white gold became more common later, and fashion jewelry imitated these effects.

What collectors should examine

Check milgrain, knife-edge bars, openwork assembly, natural versus cultured pearls, diamonds and original findings. Metal testing matters for valuable claims.

Revival styles & buying cautions

A modern laser-made filigree setting can resemble antique openwork. Marriage of old gemstones and new mounts is common.

Dating caution: White-metal filigree was widely revived in later decades. Confirm metal and assembly, not just appearance.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Illustrative jewelry photograph for Art Nouveau collecting
c. 1890–1910

Art Nouveau

Nature-inspired curves, enamel, floral motifs, and sculptural design.

Read the Art Nouveau collecting guide

Art Nouveau jewelry is known for its flowing, nature-inspired designs. Look for curved lines, flowers, leaves, insects, and graceful female figures. Many pieces feature open spaces between the metalwork that are intentionally incorporated into the design. These open areas help create the delicate, flowing appearance that distinguishes Art Nouveau jewelry from more traditional Victorian styles.

How to recognize it

  • Flowing, nature-inspired curves, asymmetrical compositions, and delicate openwork in which the spaces between metal elements are integral to the overall design
  • Dragonflies, orchids, female figures, insects, and flowing hair
  • Enamel, horn, glass, and plique-à-jour techniques

The integration of openwork and negative space is an excellent visual identification clue, particularly when distinguishing Art Nouveau from more conventional Victorian jewelry.

Characteristic designs

Enamel brooches, figural pendants, dragonfly ornaments

Materials & construction

Plique-à-jour and other enamels, horn, opal, glass, moonstone, pearls and gold were valued for texture and translucency; diamonds were not always the focus.

What collectors should examine

Seek coherent organic movement and craftsmanship across front and reverse. Inspect enamel for losses or restoration and carefully check delicate wings, stems and joints.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Late-20th-century fantasy jewelry revives dragonflies, mermaids and flowing lines. Style alone is not an authentication method.

Dating caution: Art Nouveau-inspired motifs were revived throughout the 20th century; a dragonfly alone does not date a piece.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Illustrative jewelry photograph for Art Deco collecting
c. 1920–1939

Art Deco

Stepped geometry, strong symmetry, and contrasting stones in crisp architectural designs.

Read the Art Deco collecting guide

Art Deco jewelry combines architectural geometry, balanced repetition, and striking contrasts. Stepped forms and precisely arranged stones create a crisp, streamlined appearance, while stylized natural and Egyptian Revival motifs add variety.

How to recognize it

  • Stepped outlines, chevrons, zigzags, sunbursts, and repeating geometric patterns
  • Bold color contrasts, especially black onyx against diamonds or clear stones
  • Baguette, emerald- and calibré-cut stones arranged to emphasize the design

Characteristic designs

Geometric brooches, panel bracelets, long earrings, sautoirs, and stylized Egyptian Revival motifs

Materials & construction

Platinum, white gold, onyx, diamonds, rock crystal, jade, coral, enamel and calibré-cut colored stones produced crisp high-contrast compositions.

What collectors should examine

Look for precise symmetry, stepped silhouettes, repeated patterns, and stones arranged as part of the geometry. Examine construction, repairs, and maker marks before assigning a period date.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Art Deco revival is widespread; not every geometric 1980s brooch or modern diamond ring belongs to the 1920s or 1930s.

Dating caution: Art Deco Revival pieces from the 1970s–1990s can look remarkably convincing.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Illustrative jewelry photograph for Retro collecting
c. 1940s

Retro

Sculptural yellow and rose gold, rubies, and architectural 1940s designs.

Read the Retro / Wartime collecting guide

Sculptural volume and substantial-looking metals dominated; romantic curves began replacing Deco’s hard edges.

How to recognize it

  • Oversized scrolls, bows, knots, and curved ribbons
  • Rose- and yellow-gold finishes and broad metal surfaces
  • Large brooches, tank-style links, bold cocktail-ring settings

Characteristic designs

Voluminous bow brooches, chunky bracelets, stylized flowers

Materials & construction

Yellow and rose gold dominated many fine pieces; gold-tone costume jewelry used plated base metals, molded glass, rhinestones and large sculptural settings.

What collectors should examine

Inspect broad links, scrolls and floral forms, hollow-backed construction, clasp function and any replacement stones. Distinguish 1940s production from later retro-style pieces.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Big rose-gold color and bows are not exclusive to wartime jewelry. Brand dates and construction offer stronger corroboration.

Dating caution: Retro describes a historical jewelry style here, not simply modern reproduction.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Florentine textured vintage gold gold-tone engraved bangle bracelet with safety chain on light champagne satin
c. 1950s–1960s

Mid-Century

From elegant 1950s rhinestone sets and floral brooches to bolder 1960s modernist designs, Mid-Century jewelry also featured faux pearls, thermoset plastics, cocktail rings and a range of textured finishes, including Florentine.

Read the 1950s–1960s Mid-Century collecting guide

Mid-Century jewelry ranged from polished rhinestone parures, faux pearls and dimensional floral brooches in the 1950s to bolder abstract, sculptural and modernist designs in the 1960s. Florentine and other textured metal finishes were among the many treatments used.

How to recognize it

  • Florentine, brushed, engraved and polished metal finishes—useful clues, but not exclusive to this period
  • Sculptural leaves, ribbons, starbursts and abstract motifs
  • Pearls, rhinestones, cabochons and colorful enamel

Characteristic designs

Rhinestone parures, dimensional floral brooches, cocktail rings, faux-pearl jewelry, thermoset and Lucite designs, textured-metal pieces and modernist forms

Materials & construction

Rhinestones, faux pearls, thermoset plastics, Lucite, enamel, sterling silver and gold-tone or gold-filled metals were widely used. Florentine, brushed, engraved and polished finishes appeared on many kinds of jewelry.

What collectors should examine

Compare maker marks, findings, stone settings, metal finishes and surface wear. Examine the backs of molded thermoset pieces and check whether coordinated sets originally belonged together.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Aurora borealis stones do not automatically date all pieces to the 1950s; replacement stones and later reissues are possible.

Dating caution: Florentine texture and other decorative finishes are not exclusive to this era. Date jewelry using a combination of marks, materials, construction, and design.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

1970s jewelry example
1970–1979

1970s

Colorful enamel flower pins, modernist silver, long pendants, chunky chains and natural materials.

Read the 1970s collecting guide

Flower-power fashion carried brightly colored enameled metal flower brooches from the late 1960s into the 1970s, alongside earthy materials, silver, large pendants, and statement chains.

How to recognize it

  • Bright enamel flower pins with slender petals, long stems and vivid colors
  • Oversized links, pendants, hammered metal and abstract curves
  • Turquoise-look stones, wood, shell, and mixed materials

Characteristic designs

Colorful enameled flower brooches, bold chains, modernist metalwork and large pendants

Materials & construction

Bright enamel over metal was especially visible in flower-power brooches; sterling silver, hammered and cast metals, chunky chains, natural stones, wood and shell appeared alongside molded plastics and synthetic stones.

What collectors should examine

Consider the maker’s signature, chain types, metal weight, handwork, wear to finishes and any period catalog evidence.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Terms such as tribal, Brutalist or modernist are broad selling labels—not reliable maker or date evidence.

Dating caution: Later reissues can use older designs, molds, or trademarks. Check maker history.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

1980s jewelry example
1980–1989

1980s

Oversized 1980s runway-inspired jewelry, sculptural gold-tone statements, dramatic proportions, enamel and designer details.

Read the 1980s collecting guide

Oversized 1980s runway-inspired jewelry brought dramatic scale, sculptural forms and bold designer statements to high-fashion looks.

How to recognize it

  • Oversized gold-tone earrings, wide cuffs, dramatic collars and chunky chains
  • Bold geometric silhouettes, textured metal, enamel, prominent faux gems and animal motifs
  • Exaggerated proportions, sculptural brooches and coordinated statement pieces

Characteristic designs

Oversized runway-style earrings, chunky chains, wide cuffs, dramatic collars and statement brooches; designer influences include Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Givenchy, Christian Dior and Karl Lagerfeld

Materials & construction

Gold-tone metal, resin, polished enamel, faux gemstones and logo hardware supported dramatic fashion jewelry, while fine designers explored distinctive bold gold and gem settings.

What collectors should examine

Study designer and licensee signatures, construction quality, clip mechanisms and branding; separate genuine labeled designs from lookalikes.

Revival styles & buying cautions

Designer logos are frequently copied. Verify hallmark style, ownership history and the specific collection before paying a designer premium.

Dating caution: Designer trademarks are often licensed; distinguish the designer label from the manufacturer.

Explore the complete Jewelry Periods research →

Specialty Collections

Follow what fascinates you—cameos, sentimental pieces, vintage watches and more. Explore collecting guides before browsing available examples.

Illustrative photographic image for Cameos

Cameos

Shell, hardstone, lava and portrait carvings

View collecting guide +

What collectors look for

Fine carving, strong relief, expressive detail, rare subjects, original mounts, and undamaged shell or hardstone. Compare the front and reverse under magnification.

Facing left

Right-facing profiles are more common; left-facing portraits can be less common, but direction alone does not prove age, authenticity, or higher value.

Noses and hairstyles

A long, straight or aquiline “Roman” nose is often associated with 19th-century carvings. Shorter or more upturned noses and changing hairstyles may point toward later work. These are stylistic tendencies—not a reliable date stamp.

Confirm the date

Study shell or stone material, carving tool marks, costume details, brooch hinge and clasp, metal marks, and any evidence of remounting. A later mount may hold an older cameo.

Illustrative photographic image for Mourning & Sentimental

Mourning & Sentimental

Jet, hairwork, memorial jewelry and symbolism

View collecting guide +

What to seek

Jet, onyx, black enamel, woven hairwork, memorial inscriptions, miniature portraits, and well-preserved original settings.

Not all hair jewelry is mourning

Hairwork could commemorate the deceased or be exchanged as a token of love; inscriptions and documented context help establish its purpose.

Examine carefully

Check whether black elements are jet, glass, vulcanite, or other materials; inspect hairwork, back closures, dates, and damage. Avoid aggressive cleaning.

Illustrative photographic image for Vintage Watches

Vintage Watches

Watchmakers, originality, movements and servicing

View collecting guide +

What collectors look for

Original dials, hands, cases and movements; matching references and serial numbers; complete or documented service history.

Redials and replacements

Refinished dials or replacement crowns, hands, crystals and bracelets can change collectibility. An attractive restoration is not necessarily original.

Before buying

Confirm movement function and service needs with a qualified watchmaker. Check case corrosion, water damage, polishing, and replacement parts. Do not assume an old watch is water-resistant.

Illustrative photographic image for Antique Rings

Antique Rings

Settings, old cuts, gemstones and hallmarks

View collecting guide +

Look for

Old mine, rose and old European diamond cuts; period mountings; hand engraving, metal marks and documented provenance.

Dating clues

Stone cuts and setting styles offer context, but rings are often resized, reset, or repaired. A period-style mounting is not always period-made.

Condition matters

Examine worn prongs, chips, fractures, thin shanks and later alterations. Valuable stones and precious metals may warrant a qualified gemological assessment.

Illustrative photographic image for Lockets & Portraits

Lockets & Portraits

Miniatures, enamel, photographs and keepsakes

View collecting guide +

What collectors value

Original photos, hand-painted portraits, enamel work, quality engraving, maker marks, and an intact hinge and closure.

Dating clues

Study the metalwork, monograms, engraving, photograph type and fashion. Original portraits or inscriptions can strengthen provenance, but photographs may have been added later.

Preservation

Avoid exposing old photographs, painted miniatures and fragile enamel to water, polishing compounds or harsh light.

Illustrative photographic image for Pocket Watches

Pocket Watches

Cases, movements and historic watchmakers

View collecting guide +

What to collect

Documented makers, distinctive movements, original enamel dials, unusual cases, and fine decorative engraving.

Inspect the movement

Movement maker, case maker, material and serial information can differ. Verify the movement and case belong together; replacements are common.

Before winding

Do not force a stuck crown or key. Have older mechanisms checked by a qualified watchmaker and budget for specialist servicing.

Illustrative photographic image for Mexican Silver

Mexican Silver

Taxco, Spratling, Los Castillo and hallmarks

View collecting guide +

What collectors seek

Well-executed Taxco and Mexican modernist silver, distinctive design, stone inlay, and signatures linked to documented makers.

Marks and dating

Check “Mexico,” “Taxco,” sterling marks, individual maker signatures and eagle or other assay marks in their historical context. Marks alone do not prove age or authenticity.

Condition

Inspect solder repairs, stone replacements, worn clasps, and aggressive polishing that may erase attractive original patina.

Illustrative photographic image for Designer Fine Jewelry

Designer Fine Jewelry

Collectible house signatures and provenance

View collecting guide +

Collecting focus

Documented designs and signature collections from established jewelry houses, with period-correct construction and materials.

Authenticate carefully

Signatures, serial numbers and boxes are supporting evidence, not guarantees. Compare workmanship, hallmark style, stones, and relevant archival records.

Before investing

For significant purchases, consider independent gemological or specialist authentication, provenance documentation, and an appropriate return policy.

Research references: Jewellery Valuers Association — cameo identification · Antique Trader — dating cameos · The Met — mourning brooch ·

Specialty images are illustrative examples, not photographs of authenticated historical pieces.

04

Care for My Collection

Protect the condition, history, and value of the jewelry you love—from costume pieces to family heirlooms.

Before You Clean

Start by identifying the material and checking for loose stones, fragile settings, old repairs, foil backs, and glued components. If you're unsure what a piece is made of, avoid soaking it.

  • For vintage rhinestones, foil-backed stones, glued settings, and painted or coated finishes, begin with a dry, soft cloth or brush; keep moisture out of settings.
  • Avoid ultrasonic cleaners, steam, abrasive polishing, household chemicals, toothpaste, and harsh jewelry dips on antique or uncertain materials.
  • Preserve intentional patina, original finishes, and old surface details rather than trying to make every piece look new.

Delicate & Historic Materials

Pearls, opals, amber, coral, turquoise, shell cameos, jet, early plastics, and mourning jewelry may react badly to water, heat, solvents, or abrasion. Cleaning methods depend on the material and its condition.

  • Use minimal handling and a soft cloth for delicate pieces; never immerse hairwork or closed-back, foil-backed jewelry.
  • Keep perfume, hairspray, and lotions away from jewelry; let pieces dry after wear before putting them away.
  • For valuable or damaged pieces, ask a conservator or jeweler experienced with antiques before attempting treatment.

Storage & Documentation

Store pieces individually to avoid rubbing, tangled chains, and pressure on settings. Use clean, nonabrasive supports and avoid extreme heat, direct sunlight, and damp storage.

  • Photograph front, back, maker's marks, clasps, condition, and any accompanying boxes or paperwork.
  • Keep receipts, appraisals, provenance, and repair records with your collection inventory.
  • Periodically inspect clasps, prongs, strings, and safety chains; have fragile pieces professionally assessed before wearing.

Insurance & Protecting Value

Homeowners or renters policies may have limits on jewelry theft or loss. For valuable personal pieces, compare scheduled coverage with a dedicated jewelry policy. Insurers may require current appraisals and may cover replacement rather than resale value.

  • Ask whether vintage, antique, signed costume, and inherited jewelry are eligible and how replacement is determined.
  • Confirm coverage for loss, theft, accidental damage, travel, deductibles, exclusions, and claims documentation.
  • If you buy or hold jewelry for resale, ask about separate business or inventory coverage; personal jewelry insurance may not apply.

Insurance links are for comparison and research, not a recommendation that a particular policy will cover your collection. No insurance affiliate relationship is represented here.

Care information is general guidance. Appropriate treatment depends on materials, construction, age, repairs, and condition; seek qualified advice before cleaning irreplaceable pieces.

Collector’s Research Notes

Quick guidance before making an expensive purchase or an attribution.

How can I tell whether a piece is collectible?+

Look for distinctive design, original condition, quality of construction, documented attribution, and demand. Scarcity alone does not establish value.

Compare completed sales and documented examples rather than relying on asking prices.

What does “verified Juliana” mean?+

Juliana is the name collectors use for jewelry made by DeLizza & Elster. The jewelry was generally unmarked, though an original Juliana paper hangtag occasionally survives. Identification relies on comparing the design, stone arrangement, settings, and especially the construction on the reverse with documented examples.

Visit Is It Juliana Jewelry?, a searchable, curator-reviewed database of DeLizza & Elster jewelry. You can search by jewelry type, color, stones, motifs, and construction details.

Important: “Verified” describes a reference record in that archive; it does not automatically authenticate another piece that resembles it. Look for agreement across several details, and note any differences or repairs.

Read the database’s identification guide ↗

How should I evaluate antique and fine jewelry?+
  • Examine metal hallmarks, makers’ signatures and evidence of later alterations.
  • Understand whether gemstones are natural, lab-grown, treated or imitation.
  • For valuable pieces, use qualified gemological and appraisal expertise rather than a photograph or handheld tester alone.
Independent educational research, not authentication or appraisal advice. Marketplace links lead to independent listings; a listing does not verify historical attribution.